If you’ve ever been in Baltimore and thought “damn, I could go for a taco” then you need to visit Cocina Luchadoras. It’s just a few blocks north of Fells Point square and is home to some amazing authentic Mexican food. To Rosalyn Vera the owner and self-proclaimed tortilla maker, Cocina Luchadoras is far more than just food; It’s love and love that reminds her of home. Ever since Rosalyn was a child she has always been around matriarchs who have been cooking the same family recipes for years. As a little girl, she remembers the whole family taking part in the cooking. Her mother, her grandmother, her aunts, all cooking something different, and all the kids in the family running around enjoying it all. Rosalyn recalls her mother’s ingenuity and creativity “My mom would take a bunch of ingredients that she had laying around and would make this beautiful meal, and it was always so good.” As the years passed Rosalyn found herself cooking more and more, and recalls her friends and family always telling her how good the food was. So, when the opportunity arose for Rosalyn to open Cocina Luchadoras, she grabbed it.
This isn’t Rosalyn’s first experience with a restaurant. Her family had restaurants in NY where she grew up, so she knew very well it was a lot of work, but that didn’t stop her. When she first opened Cocina Luchadoras with her mother they started creating and selling a simple menu of tacos, tortas, sopes, enchiladas, and salsas, all from scratch. With the addition of chef, Leo Nieves Molina Cocina Luchadoras was able to add nostalgic items like quesadillas and memelas. It was very important for her mom to be there with her. “My mom would say that tortilla is life and it’s love.” Making the tortillas from scratch is not only nostalgic for Rosalyn, it’s a burning passion for her culture and a way to keep all the food she creates in her restaurant authentic. This is one of the main visions she had from the start. “ We get to transport our visitors to a world in Mexico and that’s very important to me. It makes me very proud of who we are. I want to get to their hearts and their stomachs and all their senses.” Which is why all of the items on the Luchadoras menu remain authentic and virtually unchanged from the way they served it in Oaxaca & Puebla, the two Mexican states where her family is from.
While Rosalyn serves up some delicious food, she does not consider herself a chef or even a cook but if you’ve had her food you would disagree. Cooking is simply something she loves to do but has no formal training in. “I love, love, love making the tortillas. I love to see the masa (corn dough) transform, and it reminds me so much of my grandmother, Aurelia. I have her in my mind all the time. When I was young I was there by her side while she was cooking.” This feeling of home and family is another key ingredient in the very fabric of Cocina Luchadoras and a huge inspiration for Rosalyn. “I want everyone to feel welcome. I want people to feel the warmth they would when they visit home” And when you visit Cocina Luchadoras, you will immediately feel just that. She introduces herself, suggests items, lets you sample things on the menu and chats with you like you’re an old friend. It’s a welcoming and small “homey” atmosphere with happy faces throughout with bright decor that pays homage to vibrant Mexican culture. When you taste what Rosalyn creates that has been passed on to her through her family, you’ll be craving more.
It hasn’t always been an easy journey for Rosalyn. “Being a woman in this industry [she laughs] you don’t get a lot of the respect. I mean I’m not a chef, you know? I’m just doing this because I love it.” Like many other artists, she questions herself a lot. She is very thankful for the huge support her husband and family give her. Another difficulty Rosalyn has had to deal with is racism. “I try to ignore the politics ya know, but being Latino in the US can be rough sometimes. I’ve been discriminated against because of my skin color, but it’s such a big beautiful world out there and I’ve met so many beautiful people in this industry, it makes it all worth it.” These situations are undoubtedly daunting and could dampen even the brightest of spirits but Rosalyn always remains positive and continues to bring the flavors of Oaxaca & Puebla to Baltimore for everyone to enjoy.
Cocina Luchadoras and Rosalyn have a great deal to be proud of. She has amassed a very engaged and active following on social media. She has remained loyal to her heritage through the lost art of authentic tortilla-making using Mexican maize and processing it in the old way called nixtamal and bringing it to life in her restaurant, something that some younger chefs are just discovering. Not to mention that within three months of opening Baltimore Magazine featured her Cocina Luchadoras in their guide to tacos with an article and a photo of Rosalyn’s taco on the cover. “This was just so amazing for me. I mean when they called I said WHAT? Can you repeat that?” She was even featured in Baltimore Style Magazine. Rosalyn clearly loves what she does, and considers just having the opportunity to create and share her food with others to be a success in itself. “Being in the moment and making the food is a big success for me. It’s my inspiration and part of my life, I am very proud of it, and very proud I’m able to do it.” It’s clear that Rosalyn takes her mothers old saying to heart “Tortilla is life.”
Rosalyn Vera’s advice for other cooks or creators:
Don’t give up! If you have an idea, try to pursue it as much as you can.
Out of crazy ideas come amazing ideas. Sometimes people will think it’s not going to work, but don’t go against your idea. Follow your gut and work really hard.
Whatever you do in this life just do it with pride! Maybe you didn’t achieve it that way you wanted too, but wipe those tears, cry it out, and then keep going.
Need a taco yet? Go visit Cocina Luchadoras at 253 S Broadway, Baltimore, MD 21231 – Follow Cocina Luchadoras on Facebook and Instagram!
All images and content created by Nick Hanyok Imaging.
